Sorry for the long delay in posting, my friends. We’ve been sailing and anchoring off shore, far away from the internet. Only in the last 30 minutes have I had access to it again, here at Buddha’s Bar and Restaurant in Spanish Wells, Eleuthera. I will post photos as soon as I can. Until then, I will publish what I’ve written in order.
By the way, Buddha’s is a colorful bar with an interesting gray parrot. But the food is not that great and I wouldn’t want to be here when all the big screen tv’s are on and the music is turned up loud. Spanish Wells is so named because the Spaniards, the ones who killed all the original Lucayan inhabitants of these islands, dug a number of wells here back in the late 16th century. There isn’t anything Spanish about this place. It’s a fisher-town, with lots of biting flies, hot streets, and murky water. As on many of the other out islands settled by Loyalists during the late 18th century, the White locals look inbred as they are all rather tall and large bodied. Most of them sound as though they never went to school at all. They say “ain’t got no” and seem gruff but are fairly friendly and nice enough.
We are here only to get propane and gas and provisions and to do a couple of loads of laundry.
I can’t tell you what a relief it is to be on land again, after the past four, no five, days without setting foot on solid ground. We’ve been sitting out a “big blow,” as they call a system of 50 knot winds, torrential rains, and screaming, howling, screaming, howling.
We found out about the need for good anchors over the past few days at Royal Harbor. The water is a lovely chalky green, due to the gloopy sands that make for poor holding in rough weather. We were fine up to 30 knots, but we started to sweat at 40 and decided to set a second anchor when the winds started to gust up to 50. The water was only 10 feet deep, but we had to let out 100 feet of chain, 50 feet of chain on the main anchor, a 33 pound Rocna, and 30 feet of chain and a 150 feet of rode on a 23 pound Fortress. Still, we didn’t sleep, as the winds clocked around the entire compass during the three days we stayed here.
I’d love to show you a few pictures, but didn’t take any. We were kind of busy keeping our boat safe. Plus it was raining sheets and windows. But I have posted a lovely photo of Ryan on Abaco, below.